International Living Postcards—your daily escape
Saturday, Oct. 3, 2009
The Hidden Side of My Brazilian Island
By Lee Harrison
I sped across the causeway and penetrated the lush, tropical landscape of the island of Itamaraca. But instead of continuing through the hills to the popular beaches, I veered left...toward the mysterious “north end” of the island.
It's the end that few people ever see, and even fewer buy property in.
I got off to a quick start on the nicely-paved road, but the paving only lasted 100 yards. After that, it was a jarring, bumpy dirt road that continued for the next half hour, during which I traveled less than four miles. I drove through a lush forest preserve, skirted winding rivers, climbed hills, and even passed an old prison with its odd museum inviting passers-by to stop in.
But when I crested that last hill it was worth it, as I looked down on the small village with the shimmering blue Atlantic stretched out beyond.
The “north end” of Itamaraca is a hidden jewel. In fact it's so well-hidden that I've never been here before...even though I live on the same island, just a few miles away. There are three main areas that draw people to this part of the island: Praia do Sossega, Enseada dos Golfinhos, and Ponta da Ilha (aka Pontal da Ilha).
Praia do Sossego is the only one of these areas that I'd consider a town. And even then, I use the term loosely. The village has a general store or two, a restaurant, a bar, and a couple of other businesses. Otherwise, it's a mixture of small vacation homes, luxury villas, and a handful of fairly new condos. A couple of small beach bars and a long stretch of white-sand beach round out the amenities. Praia do Sossego (restful beach) is the first landing you'll make on the north end, whether you're arriving by road, or by the ferry crossing. The ferry costs about 50 cents at high tide, and half that at low tide. But don't plan on taking your car on the voyage...
As you travel up the fine-sand beaches to the north, the next populated area is Enseada dos Golfinhos (inlet of the dolphins). This sector feels fairly new, and consists mainly of vacation homes; some of which are quite luxurious. Amenities here are even slimmer...a small general store and a couple of beach bars that serve fresh seafood and cold beer.
At the top of the island, it takes on a more upscale feel as you enter Pontal da Ilha (Point of the Island). This part of the island seemed to have the highest concentration of nice homes, the widest, calmest beach, and the most well-kept surroundings. The roads were in good shape, I saw no litter or disrepair, and they even had a neighborhood watch association to keep an eye on things.
Pontal da Ilha faces north instead of east, so it does not see the head-on wave action of the Atlantic. So the waters here are deep blue and very calm. The beaches enjoy views of the ocean to the right, the estuary to the left, and the hills and homes on the mile-distant neighboring mainland.
And property prices are amazingly low for a haven with such peace and natural beauty. I saw two lots on the beach at Pontal da Ilha selling for right around $30,000 (they were on the beach pictured above.) In Enseada dos Golfinhos or Praia do Sossego, a nice vacation home (not beachfront) will set you back between $32,000 and $45,000. A two bedroom, one-bath condo in a small, new beachfront project is going for $47,000.
But remember, this area is remote, and there are few amenities. If you come to the north end of Itamaraca, don't come for the nightlife...come for the peace, tranquility, and natural beauty.
