Uruguay has everything - except good country walks

 

By Paul Deeney
Last Updated: 3:17PM BST 02 Apr 2009

When my wife and I married, she up-rooted from friends and family for close to 20 years so when she said that she would like to go home to Uruguay I indicated that I would be happy to retire there, provided that it was to Punta del Este rather than the capital, Montevideo.

As things turned out, the opportunity arose to establish a base in Uruguay while I was still working and travelling to other countries in Latin America.

We rented a house in Montevideo, which is pleasant enough and small as capitals go. But I find cities stressful. When work circumstances changed and it became a question of accepting a repatriation deal or staying, we decided to stay and soon after bought a house in Punta del Este, while keeping a residence in Europe. So we have the privileged position of being able to enjoy two summers per year: one in the southern and one in the northern hemisphere

Punta is a kind of South American Monte Carlo – a very upmarket resort, with gambling to keep things going out of season; verdant surroundings and delightful properties that are much less expensive than you would expect and excellent, extensive beaches on both the Atlantic and River Plate coasts.

The peak season is very short, basically Christmas to the end of February, though the weather is delightful for much longer. Most visitors stay in rented accommodation, of which there is a vast array as many homes are unoccupied most of the year.

There is a great selection of restaurants and high-quality shows – this is where the DJs from the southern European "hot spots" winter! Rather like Spain, it is a "late town" and restaurants are unlikely to fill up before 11pm.

Many think of South America as the tropics. This is a big mistake, just as it is a mistake to think of all its countries as alike. It extends from well north of the equator to Cape Horn, which has a reputation for some of the worst weather on the planet.

Uruguay has four definite seasons – sometimes with three on the same day! I used to think that England had changeable weather but when I began spending time in Uruguay I was told "if you don't like the weather, wait half an hour". But winter is less cold, less long and much sunnier than the UK.

Uruguayans are courteous and educated people and as there are only some 3.5 million of them in a space roughly the size of England and Wales combined, the place has a relaxed feel about it. Driving around the country is a pleasure such as is only a distant memory in southern England, with very good roads and mostly minimal traffic.